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Indian Wedding : Indian-Fashion-Glossary

Indian Fashion Glossary

Ambi:  A mango-shaped motif - the paisley pattern (lit. 'rich')

Amli:  Needle work embroidery native to Kashmir

Angarkha:  A long-sleeved, full-skirted tunic for men, generally open at the chest and tied in front with an inner flap

Ari:  Awl-like hooked needle, often used for chain stitch embroidery

Badam:  A textile term for oval-shaped motifs

Badla:  Flattened gold or silver wire

Badla:  Mukaish Knots of badla sewn onto cloth

Baluchar:  A type of brocaded silk sari

Bandgala:  Achkan and shervani (lit. 'closed neck')

Bandhini:  The mode of tie-dyeing fabrics to form patterns (also known as bandhej)

Bandi:  A short jacket or waistcoat

Batik:  A paste or wax resist dyeing technique

Bel:  A stylized creeper pattern

Buti:  A smaller version of a buta the term is used also to denote stylized animal motifs printed in block repeats

Calico:  A term used by early European traders

Cheent:  Spotted

Chikankari:  White embroidery, predominantly floral patterns, executed on fine white cotton with untwisted threads of white cotton or silk

Chiru:  Himalayan antelope

Choli:  A woman's blouse or bodice usually tight-fitting

Chunari:  A tie-dyed dotted pattern, a veil

Chunnat:  Pleated or crimped gota ribbon

Churidar paijama:  Style of tight-fitting paijama, rouched from the knee to the ankles (lit. the paijama with bangles)

Dhoti:  An unstitched garment used to drape the lower body, very much in use today

Dori:  A cord

Dupatta:  An unstitched length of material for the upper body traditionally worn by both sexes, but now mainly worn by women as part of a salwar kameez (paijama and tunic) ensemble

Farshi:  A wide legged trailing paijama

Ganga Jamuna:  The juxtaposition of silver and gold in a woven pattern, named after the confluence of dark and light waters of the two sacred rivers

Ghaghra:  A gathered skirt usually very flared

Ghera:  Circumference, fullness of a garment

Gheru: Saffron, ochre

Ghundi:  A button made of silk or cotton, sometimes covered with gold or silver wire, held together with a loop

Gota:  A metallic ribbon in which badla forms the weft and silk or cotton the wrap

Gota Moti:  A beaded cord covered with gota, often used for finishing ghaghra and jama hems

Gota Patti:  Small leaf shapes made of gota

Gote:  The bottom part of a farshi paijama which is made up of three sections, often richly embellished

Holi:  A lively and colourful festival celebrated on the last day of the month of Phalgun to welcome the onset of spring

Ikkat:  The name of the pattern created by the tie-dyeing the weft and wrap threads before weaving which is a specially of Gujarat Orissa and Andhra Pradesh

Izarband:  The decorative drawstring at the waist of a lower garment, usually a ghaghra or a paijama with ornamented tasselled ends

Jaal:  An all over pattern in a printed or embroidered fabric

Jala:  A small wooden frame used by master craftsmen, on which threads are tied to form a grid of the wrap and weft outling the design of the weave

Jamakhana:  The storehouse for garments in the Mughal and other royal courts

Jamavar:  The trade name for the woven or embroidered Kashmir shawls

Jamdaani:  A weaving technique traditional to the town of Tanda, Jais and Dacca used to produce figured muslins

Jhoomar:  A jewelled hair ornament worn on the side of the head

Jhumka:  A bell-shaped piece of jewellery

Jutis:  Slip on shoes, usually elaborated embroidery and with unturned toes

Kalamkari:  Painted cloth (as a trade term it referred to both painted and printed cloths)

Kali:  A gored panel

Kalioyndar Paijama:  A wide bottomed paijama made up of several panels

Kameez:  A tunic

Kanchala - Kundal:  A type of earing

Kanchli:  A sleeveless bodice worn in Western India

Kanni:  A complex weaving technique originating in Kashmir (known in the West as the double twill-tapestry technique)

Khadi:  Fabric made of handspun yarns, symbol of India's fight for Independent

Kurta:  A loose, stitched garment worn by men and women, most commonly described as a tunic (also known as a kameez)

Kurti:  A short kurta usually worn by women a type of grass fiber)

Lahariya:  A pattern in which diagonal wavy stripes are formed by the fold-resist dyeing technique of the same name

Lehnga:  A skirt

Libaas:  An ensemble or dress

Mashru:  A medium weight wrap faced satin or twill fabric with silk wrap and cotton weft

Minakari:  Coloured enamel jewellery, borders or butis woven with different coloured silk to give the appearance of enamel

Mothra:  A criss-cross pattern obtained through fold-resist dyeing in woven fabrics the term

Moti:  A bead or pearl

Mulmul:  Cotton, usually in reference to Indian muslin, particularly the muslin woven in Bengal

Odhini:  A veil, usually 3m x 1m, worn by women with a ghaghra, kurti and kanchli, it covers the head and the right shoulder, is drawn across the body and either tucked into the waistband or left hanging in front

Pagri:  The common term for a turban

Paijama:  Drawstring trousers worn by men and women with many different styles

Paithani:  Cotton and silk sari produced in Paithan

Pallav:  The decorative border at one or both ends of a length of fabric usually of a sari, odhani or patka

Pashmina:  The wool made from the fleece of the underbelly of the rare Tibetan wild mountain goat

Patti:  A border or edging

Peshwaz:  A long high-waisted gown

Phulkari:  Folk embroidery typical of the Punjab

Poncha:  The ankle opening of a paijama, usually the salwar, which is often quilted or ornamented with decorative stitching

Purdah:  The practice of sequestering women, the flap of fabric in the angarkha that covers the chest, the pieces of fabric used to make up the cups of a choli

Sari:  An unstitched length of fabric up to 9 yds in length and 18 to 60 in width with a decorated end panel draped in a wide variety of styles

Shatoosh:  The fleece of the tibetan chiru antelope that is spun and woven into fine shawls

Shal:  A shawl

Salwar Paijama:  A baggy style of paijama tapered at the ankle worn mainly in the Punjab, Afghanistan and African garment

Shervani:  A formal knee-length coat fitted to the waist

Sinjaf:  The facing inside the hem of a garment

Sitara:  Tiny metal discs, often of gold or silver with a tiny hole at the centre

Tanchoi:  Figured silk with multiple supplementary weft threads, that create a heavy densly patterned fabric

Teej:  A festival celebrating conjugal love, held in Northern and western India in The month of Shravan

Tikka:  A forehead ornament also used to refer to a bindi

Tikki:  Metal discs used in zardozi embroidery

Topi:  A cap

Tussar:  A type of wild silk made in Eastern and Central India from hand spun yarns

Tikki / Tikki Embroidery:  Metal discs used in zardozi embroidery

Vastra:  Clothes

Zardozi:  Gold thread embroidery using metallic elements and threads, sometimes mirrors, precious or semi precious stones

Zari:  metal wrapped yarn used for zardozi embroidery

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